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Women’s needlework. ABC for Linen Marking

Creation period
the early 20th century
Place of сreation
St. Petersburg, the Russian Empire
Dimensions
15x23 cm
Technique
paper, typographic printing
13
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#5

The tradition of decorating clothes, bedding and table linen with embroidery goes far back in time. In the old days, European needlewomen created unique embroidered monograms. They were inspired by manuscripts and books, and also borrowed letters that were stylized by famous painters. As a rule, embroideries for privileged persons were made more convex, various vignettes and threads of several colors were used.

Artists would embroider their initials on tapestries. In this way they protected copyright and made their name more recognizable. For this purpose, Gothic letters were used in Germany and England, and they were supplemented with decorative patterns. Swiss-style letters, which were embroidered in the technique of dense cordon stitch, visually similar to a roller, were notable for their openwork.

The first embroidered marks appeared on table linen around the 16th century. Dutch tablecloths and napkins of that time, which have survived to our days, have the name of the customer, weaver and even the name of the area where the item was produced. Bed linen, mainly in the homes of aristocrats, began to be decorated with lace and embroidery in the 18th century.

Later, the decorative finish became more complicated, and complex monograms appeared. For example, the initial letters of the first and last names were often intertwined in the form of a monogram, or conventional images of plants and animals.

By the mid-19th century, embroidery and lace on linen became popular in Russia too. Large dense white bouquets on the edges of towels, sheets, pillow covers came into fashion. Tablecloths and napkins were always decorated with a cipher, while in noble families — with a coat of arms and a monogram. In 1846, the German educator Adelheida Mersierkler wrote in her book “Entry of a young maiden into the world …”,

#6

Your handkerchief, invariably very thin, should feature at least your capital initials. If your rank allows you to have a crown on top of those letters, it will look even prettier; however, excessively rich monograms are inappropriate for visits.

Translation by Baroness Julia von Ikskulm
#7

The interest in this kind of embroidery prompted ladies’ magazines in the second half of the 19th century to actively publish alphabets for marking linen in special sections or supplements. The publication, which is presented in the exhibition, is called “Women’s Needlework. ABC for Linen Marking.” This series of brochures was produced by the publisher Caroline Kremer in the early 20th century. The series included at least 60 books, which contained samples of embroidered monograms, ciphers, and numbers.

#8
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Women’s needlework. ABC for Linen Marking

Creation period
the early 20th century
Place of сreation
St. Petersburg, the Russian Empire
Dimensions
15x23 cm
Technique
paper, typographic printing
13
Point your smartphone camera to open in the app
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Open in app
To see AR mode in action:
  1. Install ARTEFACT app for 
  2. iOS or Android;
  3. Find and download the «Paintings in Details» exhibition
  4. Push the «Augmented reality» button and point your phone's camera at the painting;
  5. Watch what happens on your phone screen whilst you flip through the pictures.
 
«Циничные карты» культурный шок в бесплатной онлайн игре!
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